DAY 13 - Lourdes to Lourdes via the Aubisque

Lourdes to Lourdes via the Aubisque
54 miles, average 11.9 mph, 1742 m climbed, 3507 kcal used
Weather sunny and warm, windier later on.

Sadly, today was our last proper day of cycling. The original plan was to go out on Saturday too, perhaps to do the Tourmalet, or at least part of it. But the forecast for tomorrow is for very heavy rain and it would not be safe to do the ride in those sorts of conditions. 

Almost as a climatic apology for the up-coming deluge, today the weather was very kind; with the early high cloud dispersing quickly. We started with a hotel breakfast; help yourself, all-you-can-eat, always a dangerous thing to offer to a group of cyclists. We noticed that they were running out of food by the time we left...

We headed out of Lourdes in cool but bright conditions, picking up food for the day at a Carrefour Supermarche, before getting onto the Voie Vert, an abandoned railway line converted to cycle route that heads out into the Gave valley. This is a brilliant facility, with a good smooth surface and info boards along the way. It takes you into the heart of the big Pyrenees and breathtaking views in very short time. 

Voie Vert out of Lourdes

Mountains looming

Gently climbing, we arrived at Argeles Gazost more quickly than we had anticipated, Roy almost overshooting as he hadn't spotted the rest of us stopping for photos. Here we left the Voie Vert and started the big climb. A couple of km at around 10% and then gradually easing off to a flat section in the middle before the final 8 km at 8-9% up to the first Col, the Soulor. Anticipation is half the battle on climbs this big; you know it is going to last a couple of hours and you have to pace yourself. We all appreciated the lighter bikes, without luggage. Fairly soon, though, Rowan's knees began to give him some trouble, so he and I stopped regularly to try to ease them off, whilst John and Roy carried on at their own pace. Again, with this sort of climb, this is what you have to do; everyone needs to find their own rhythm, so we never deliberately climb the big cold in a group.

Half way up the Soulor

Rowan's discomfort unfortunately worsened, particularly on the final 8 km section. Info boards for cyclists at the roadside are placed every km, so these help measure your effort and pace. The stops did allow us to admire the increasingly special views as we got deeper and higher into the mountains. At one point we started hearing the merry jingling of bells, something we had not heard since leaving the Massif Central. As we rounded a corner, we saw why; a whole heard of sheep (with the occasional goat) was coming down the mountain and across the road. We stopped as the tide of animals passed around us.

Sheep stop play ...

Further up the road, as we entered the last 2 km, more bells heralded a heard of cows being marshalled up the road. We briefly saw John and Roy passing them on their way to the top (we found out that John had already been up and had come back down to see how the rest of us were getting on!). Then it was our turn to wait behind, before being beckoned through by the herders. 

Then cows...

We tentatively passed, always wary when in close proximity to such big animals, especially as a couple were a bit frisky. Then we were there, at the top of the Soulor (1474 m)! A quick photo stop for Ro at the top then we met up with John and Roy for hot chocolate at one of the summit cafes.

A young man with sore knees, but a good altitude

We moved to a bench poised above the valleys, surrounded by the high peaks, for lunch where we watched Griffon Vultures and Kites soaring on the thermals.

Best lunch spot yet

A griffon vulture, (thanks to Blogging Support for the ID)

And friends

Panorama of the Soulor

Our ultimate objective was the Aubisque, 11 km on from the Soulor. Rowan's knees were not up to this, unfortunately, so it was decided that he would wait at the Soulor whilst the rest carried on. This stretch of road is a highlight of the Pyrenees, part of it traversing an almost vertical face where it has been hacked and tunnelled into the mountainside. The last two times John, Roy and I had been here, it had been in cloud or rain, so we had never seen it at its best. Today could not have been better, with clear blue sky. We dropped away from the Soulor, before climbing, initially gently, finally steeply to the Aubisque.  The traverse section was breathtaking, with uninterrupted views down to the valley floor almost at your feet and soaring peaks to the other side. 

View from the traverse to Aubisque

Pyrenean landscape at the Aubisque

Spooky tunnel sections chilled the skin. We all reached the Aubisque (1709 m) in good time, conscious that we shouldn't spend too long before returning to Rowan as we had worked out a timetable. So we turned round quickly and headed back. 

Obligatory celebratory mugshot at the top!

Aubisque panorama

John particularly enjoyed the route back. I stopped at the plaque commemorating the spot where a Tour de France rider had gone over the edge in 1951 (he survived and wa rescued by his fellow cyclists who used their spare tyres and inner tubes to make an impromptu rope) and followed on. 

The rider that survived 

Roy on the traverse, going back

We arrived to time, promptly had another cafe stop at the Soulor, before the long descent to Lourdes. It took us 1 hr and 5 mins to get from the Soulor to Lourdes.

Goodbye to the mountains

As I sit and finish off this report on Saturday morning, our decision not to ride has been vindicated as it has been throwing it down all morning. So we will pack our bags with some sadness before heading off on the long journey home this afternoon.  In the meantime, we have the flesh-pots of Lourdes to help us forget our tears, as we goggle at the extraordinary souvenirs that are on show for the pilgrims.

That's Lourdes, pronounced Lurid

Best bits
John - descent from the Aubisque 
Roy - getting to the top of the Aubisque
Jeremy - seeing Rowan get to the Soulor despite really sore knees
Rowan - listening to his audiobook in the grand theatre of mountains at the Soulor, whilst waiting for the rest of the team to return from the Aubisque.