DAY 4 - Sancerre to Moulins Sud

Sancerre to Moulins Sud

73.9 miles, 736 m climbed, average speed 12.9 mph, 3492 kcal used
Weather: initially warm and muggy with some sunshine, cooling with low cloud and occasional, locally heavy rain.

We broke camp in good time after a very hot, suffocating night which we all spent on top of our sleeping bags. As we were finishing off, a chap (Steve) came over to talk to Roy and John; a South African who lived in New Zealand, but who also spent time in Jersey, he had seen a press article about Roy and the ride! Small world indeed...

We headed out just after 9 am into the town for food, a quest that takes up much of our non-cycling time. Boulangerie was found quickly and we loaded up with goodies, and had some absolutely delicious almond croissants for breakfast, but we had to go half way to Sancerre to find the rest of our food. 

We eventually headed out at 10 am and made good progress on a much cooler day than yesterday. The route ran parallel to the Canal lateral a la Loire, which we had followed for some of yesterday too, although we only saw it occasionally. Some seriously big boats (pleasure cruisers rather than the traditional Canal boats we are used to) use it and we came across one lock which one of the monsters appeared to have wedged in. We only rarely saw the Loire itself, and in fact caught our last glance in Marseilles-les-Aubigny. Up and down was the order of the day, more so in the afternoon.

Big boats on the canal

We had lunch in Cuffy where we saw our first 'proper' castle as a ruin, but some of the chateaux we passed were very nice; none particularly ostentatious. One very attractive one appeared deserted, so maybe we should come back and do a Dick Strawbridge...

An example of one of the chateaux

Goodbye to the Loire

Under increasingly grey sky's and cooler temperatures we now left the Loire and entered the valley of the Allier. We quickly came across the end of the canal at what looked like a giant canal boat roundabout.

Canal boat roundabout?

We now moved away from the river a bit, doing more up and down as the landscape became more hilly. A largely agricultural landscape with scattered farmsteads and villages, as well as a smattering of chateaux. We stopped at one point for a stretch where a tiny lizard decided to try to hitch a ride on John's shoe. 

"I want a go on a bike!" - Lizard catches a ride

Then at some point it began to rain, light at first, then more heavily, stinging sharply on some of the steeper downhills. As we came into La Veurdre (after passing through Chateau sur Allier, where we saw no chateau) it stopped; indeed we noticed the road was dry. We screeched to a halt outside a cafe to find it closed, but fortunately noticed a nearby hotel with its door open. A polite enquiry confirmed that they would supply hot drinks so we piled in for two rounds of hot chocolate and cafe au lait. We got talking to the landlady who turned out to be British and was amazed by our quest. They were all very kind and we would reccommend them to any other passing cyclists ...

Mid afternoon hot drinks - a real tonic

We set out just as it started to rain again and initially put on coats (except John who rightly spotted that it was not going to rain for long). Reinforced by hot drinks we made good progress, stopping in Les Bruyeres to eat the excellent flans we had picked up in the morning, before covering the last 12 miles at a pace. 

John's flan carrying device came in handy again

Between showers on the final stretch to Moulins

Moulins presents an intriguing face when approached across the bridge over the Allier, but to the south, where our hotel is situated, is modern industrial and shopping estate. Hotel is very basic, but will keep us dry. 

Bridge over the Allier with the twin twin spires in Moulins

We feasted on giant pizzas in the nearby shopping centre; all but Roy were defeated by their size, so we have some of tomorrow's lunch already sorted. 

The pizza place had heard that they needed to feed cyclists...

As I write this, the latest deluge is slackening and the forecast for tomorrow is for cool and cloudy with the rain clearing overnight.  


Best bits
For all of the mid-afternoon, post-rain stop at the hotel in Le Veurdre
Additionally, for Roy, was meeting Steve at the campsite in the morning, who had seen a press article about him and ride.

Saying of the day: slowly, slowly catchy monkey!
Apparently it's real!

Random thought of the day:
Why is it (if you are right handed) that a fork feels wrong in the right hand unless you don't have any cutlery in the left (or is that just me?)