DAY 7 - Issoire to Murat

Issoire to Murat
Distance 57 miles, 11.1 mph average, 1248 m climb, 3047 kcal
Weather : cold, showers with some warming sunny intervals.

Today was a good day for scenery as we followed the Gorge d'Alagnon and the valley of the la Sianne. Beautiful views, trees and wildlife on a quiet, well-surfaced road are the things cyclists dreams are made of. The showery nature of the day added to, rather than took away from, the enjoyment. We also clocked up our first major col of the trip,

Chilly morning in the travelling tent village.

We started the day with an efficient packing up of tents. It had rained heavily overnight so they were wet; we did our best to dry them off, but we were very aware that we had a lot of stuff a bit damp, and also a lot of stuff that needed washing (the camp site electricity had a problem that prevented their machines working). We had a nice breakfast at the camp site served by a slightly overworked young lady at reception and included a couple of fresh warm croissants each, very welcome in the cool conditions.

We set off into the centre of Issoire where we found a market in full swing; we thoroughly enjoyed visiting different stalls to get our food needs for the day, also seeing the odd things for sale (double beds and grandfather clocks for example). 

Square with market in full swing and fancy clock tower

See - told you it was fancy!

Art installation in square,
...or possibly a scrap metal collection

We got out of town easily and headed south towards our intended destination for yesterday; Lempdes sur Allagnon. 19 km of rise and fall later we were there and heading into the Allagnon Gorge. This started with a very gentle climb as we were heading upstream (those of you who followed our previous ride will remember that we have previously established that water runs downhill!). The road was good and the Gorge deepened very rapidly. We followed this until la a abort where we turned off and headed up the valley of the tributary la Sianne. 

Careful descending on wet roads is what Blog support is
hoping she's seeing here...

Another candidate for "Weathertop" if they ever remake
Lord of the Rings...

And yet another possible location...

The climb gradually steepened as we headed into a quiet rural idyl. Showers were frequent, but we found a great spot for lunch at Chaselles, where there was a bench under a tree and a roofed preserved village stocks!

Stocking up for lunch!

Initially sunny we sat out on the bench, enjoying the market food (particularly good Bleu d'Auvergne). Then it started raining heavily so we huddled under the roof. The sun burst out again as we set off. We all enjoyed this next section immensely, the whole landscape was a perfect mix to 'feed the soul'. Continuing to steepen, the valley ride finished with a last steep section up the side; hard work for us all, topping at the 1229 m Col de la Croix de Baptiste. 

Rain stops play before the team photo of the Col

Unfortunately, as soon as we gathered a deluge started and we had to dash off down the steep descent before a group photo could be taken. We swooped down a wide and smooth road, wary of the slippery wet bit and into the small town of Allanche, where we found a cafe for hot drinks. 

Another dodgy action shot from the camera addict

Cafe stop. 

We dodged a really heavy shower there and headed out into sunshine and steaming roads to continue the descent back down to the Alagnon, passing impressive exposures of columnar basalt on the way. 

This may look like an ordinary cliff to you, but
Jeremy is very happy because it's columnar basalt.

A final push down the main road and we arrived at Murat as the sun just caught the Mary and child statue that sits above the town at the top of the Puy that it is built around. Then a heavy shower turned everything dark again ...

Views here are lovely when it's not raining

Madonna and child in the dusk

We found our lodgings - a sort of hostel with well equipped kitchen and, most usefully, washing facilities, so we've spent a lot of time this evening just doing the laundry!

Puy Mary tomorrow!

Favourite bits
John - the route through the gorge d'Alagnon and valley of la Sianne
Roy - sprinting over the top of the col de la Croix de Baptiste
Rowan - descent to the cafe at Allanche!
Jeremy - arriving just 1 minute before the cafe in Allanche opened, then the fact that we were inside when there was an utter deluge outside. 

Interesting fact. They put bells on their cattle in this part of the Massif Central; similar to those in the alps, but perhaps more handbell-like in tone. Occasionally going past a heard would be like listening to a carrillon.